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Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Monday, October 6, 2025

Old Mesilla

 Mesilla's San Albino has a design very similar to San Felipe de Neri in Albuquerque, but of more modest proportions.  The Plaza in front of the church was a little crowded with vendors, but it still seemed a calm and inviting place to visit on a sunny Sunday morning.  When we arrived in the Plaza the morning service was being broadcast to the neighborhood, and then the large number of parishioners in their Sunday-best began to file out, pausing to shake hands with the clergy.

  That is Margaret walking into the coffee shop across the street from the church.  The building is a thick walled adobe which was the residence of a lady named Josephine, and the shop was first known as Josephine's Gate until it got its current name recently.

The coffee and pastries are good, the large outdoor seating area is nicely shaded and the accomplished guitarist provided some nice sound as we killed an hour prior to meeting up with our daughters for lunch in Las Cruces.

Mesilla and the surrounding area was still a part of Mexico until well into  the 19th Century. Today it is about an hour north of the border.

On the previous evening we had enjoyed a family reunion dinner at Mesilla's biggest restaurant, La Posta. 

 
 

Thursday, August 17, 2023

Travel

Our trip to Portland went mostly as planned, with a surprise ending.  Changing planes in Oakland provided  a welcome glance at San Francisco including the Bay Bridge, the downtown and San Bruno Mountain where I had spent many hours hawk watching.

(Right click image to open in a separate tab to view full-size image.)

In Portland we stayed in an elegant apartment on the bank of the Clackamas, surrounded by the huge trees that are everywhere.


The Clackamas has about the same flow as the  Rio Grande, being only waist deep in the middle.
Lots of wildflowers and birds, including a majority of vultures.  My daughter was lucky enough to see some aerial combat between a pair of Osprey and a Bald Eagle.


My best find along the river bank was wild blackberries,  which evoke my best memories of both San Francisco and the Pacific Northwest.

The wedding which brought us to Portland included an hour's boat trip on the Willamette.  Portland is a marvelous city; I think it may have doubled in size since my last visit.  The bridges were familiar; I was impressed with the number of modern-looking skyscrapers and the endless public open spaces.

(I only got a few shots on film on this trip.  I did better on earlier trips to Portland in 2008 and 2011.)

Our visit was brought to an abrupt end when -- on the day before the wedding ceremony -- the groom tested positive for COVID.  So we moved our departure up a day, which resulted in a complicated flight home.  A day after our return to Albuquerque we both tested positive.

Friday, October 30, 2015

Playback

During a recent visit to a local used books shop I came across a copy of Life in Mexico by Frances Calderón de la Barca.  The book takes the form of a long series of letters written by the author to her family in New York from Mexico.

The story of travel and adventures in 19th Century Mexico begins with the marriage of Frances Inglis to Ángel Calderón de la Barca in 1838 at about the time the Argentine-born aristocrat was appointed to be the first Spanish Ambassador to Mexico following that country's establishment of independence from the Spanish Empire.  They make an arduous trip from New York to Vera Cruz by sailing ship and then travel overland by horse-drawn carriages to the Mexican capital which becomes their base for exploring central Mexico.  Given the author's social position and her husband's diplomatic status, the judgments exhibited regarding Mexican life are not without racial and class biases, but the author nevertheless shows herself to be a keen observer of Mexican society in the troubled times following independence.

Warring creole-led factions contested control of the capital city.  Bandit gangs often ruled large parts of the rural countryside, so that travel was only marginally safe even with armed escort.  In spite of these hazards, Don Calderón and his wife, during the two years of their residence in the country,  managed to navigate the complicated social and political scene with aplomb, and they undertook epic tours of Central Mexico's historic landscapes, often involving many days on horseback over treacherous roads.

In addition to writing letters home to her family about her adventures, Frances and Ángel also maintained a correspondence with the historian, William Prescott, and undertook the acquisition of information crucial to the development of his ground-breaking History of the Conquest of Mexico.  Prescott at one point even sent the couple a complete Daguerreotype outfit for the purpose of recording images of some of the country's historic sites.  That effort, using the recently-invented photographic process, apparently met with little or no success, but the couple was able to provide significant documentation supporting Prescott's quest.  The historian was later able to reciprocate by aiding Frances in the publication of her book, and providing a preface to the first edition.

The importance and difficulties of mail communications is alluded to many times throughout Life in Mexico.  Letters, packages and commercial goods commonly spent a couple months in transit, and each successful arrival was a cause for celebration.  Frances' straight-forward, unadorned writing style was well suited to communicating a good word-based approximation of her adventures and the exotic places she visited.  At the same time, she was clearly conscious of the limitations of the written word and she tried in several ways to communicate a fuller representation of her experience through non-verbal means -- an idea which today would be subsumed by the concept of multimedia.

Daguerreotypy was too new in 1840 to offer any real chance of success to a couple enthusiastic amateurs.  Frances, however, had better luck with a much older, better developed non-verbal communications form, music and musical notation.  In her sixteenth letter Frances recounts a trip by coach which passed the great pyramids of Teotihuacan on the way to the country estate of a friend.  Writing from the hacienda she reports that :

"In the evening here, all assemble in a large hall, the Señora de _____ playing the piano; while the whole party, agents, dependientes, major-domo, coachmen, matadors, picadors, and women-servants assemble, and perform the dances of the country: jarabes, aforrados, enanos, palomos, zapateros, etc., etc."

Frances includes in her letter the verses of three of the popular songs played at the gathering and says: "The music married to the "immortal verse," I have learned by ear, and shall send you."  In the twenty-sixth letter, the scores of three of the pieces played at the hacienda appear as Frances wrote them out.

These episodes of the book which focused on 19th Century Mexican popular music were the most vivid parts of the story for me.  As someone with no musical talent or education, I had never given much thought to scores and notation, thinking of them always to be little more than recipes for reproducing compositions.  What was clear from the stories told by Frances, however, was that musical notation could be used to communicate the sounds of a specific performance, one that took place at a great remove of time and place.  This may seem a trivial observation to those who are musically literate, but I think it is an idea still worthy of some reflection.

The resources which Frances Calderón de la Baca had for reproducing and transmitting sounds involved processes which are identical in fundamental ways to modern sound recording and production.  She had a method for encoding and decoding sounds, a transmission channel, and technical instrumentation for reproducing the recorded sound patterns.  The great difference between then and now, of course, is that a very high level of operator skill in both recording and  performance was required to achieve fidelity in reproduction.

To put those ideas into context, imagine the receipt of the letter containing the musical scores.  It seems very likely that the Frances' New York family would have gone into the music room after dinner.  A relative or friend who was the most skilled pianist, or perhaps the most familiar with Frances' playing style would sit down at the piano, smooth out the letter's paper, prop it on the music holder and play the tunes that Frances and learned and recorded in a far-away place.  I picture her mother closing her eyes briefly and imagining Frances there at the piano.  I propose this scenario with some degree of confidence because I was able to re-enact that scene shortly after finishing the book.  I am not able to play the piano we have in the house, but when Margaret's accomplished piano teacher came by one evening she played the three tunes for me.  So I closed my eyes too for a moment, and Frances was there in the room.